travel · January 15, 2026
Kyoto in November
Quiet temples, loud maple trees, and the best coffee I had in Japan.
I went to Kyoto expecting crowds and left thinking about how quiet it can be if you show up early enough.
Getting up before the tour buses
Most of the well-known temples open around 8 or 9 AM, and if you’re there right at opening you’ll mostly have the gardens to yourself for the first thirty minutes. That’s the window worth setting an alarm for.
Where I’d go back to
- Tofuku-ji for the maple canopy over the Tsutenkyo bridge
- Fushimi Inari, but only the lower third — go for the gates, not the summit
- A tiny coffee counter near Sanjo with maybe four seats, no sign in English
Practical notes
- November is peak leaf season, so book accommodation two to three months out
- A day pass on the city bus is worth it if you’re temple-hopping
- Bring layers — mornings were close to freezing, afternoons were pleasant
More photos from this trip are up in the photography section.